What jeans are in fashion this spring: ideas from Milan Fashion Week

Milanese locals have long been renowned for their ability to dress elegantly in any situation, giving rise to style archetypes such as the affluent and glamorous signora. However, during Fashion Week, the level of style multiplies exponentially thanks to the concentration of star guests, fashion editors, designers, and influencers from around the globe. This season, denim has drawn particular interest, quite literally taking over the city’s streets. From navy tote bags to beige Bermuda shorts, denim in every shade and texture has become the dominant element of street style.

In this article, we will explore six key denim trends that defined the face of Milan Fashion Week: cuffed hems, ultra-voluminous silhouettes, the straight-narrow stovepipe cut, barrel jeans, split hems, and deep indigo washes.

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Cuffed Hems

This simple yet effective styling trick adds visual contrast to any jeans-based outfit. Rolling up the hems by just a few centimeters is enough to refresh a familiar look. Bella Hadid showcased this trend during Milan Fashion Week, appearing at the Prada show four times in different ensembles featuring cuffed jeans. This technique works particularly well with relaxed-fit jeans, creating an effortless yet polished aesthetic. Stylists recommend pairing such jeans with ballet flats, loafers, or sneakers to highlight the exposed ankle.

Ultra-Voluminous Silhouettes

The off-duty wardrobes of models have always served as a source of inspiration for street style. During Milan Fashion Week, the trend toward ultra-loose, wide-leg jeans has been especially noticeable. These looks are defined by their practicality and comfort: oversized tote bags, comfortable flat shoes, and wide-leg jeans that are easy to slip on and off during a packed show schedule. While Italian fashion has traditionally leaned toward more tailored silhouettes and slim trousers, the international crowd has brought its love for oversized fits to Milan. These jeans are versatile and ideal for long commutes between cities during fashion month.

Stovepipe Jeans

The Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy effect, inspired by the 1990s style icon, continues to influence contemporary fashion. Her preferred jean cut—the stovepipe, or straight narrow jeans—has become one of the most prominent trends at Milan Fashion Week. This silhouette is characterized by clean lines and elegance, creating a refined look. These jeans are perfect for those who prefer minimalism and classic styling. They pair well with everything from casual T-shirts to more dressed-up blouses and blazers. French and American brands have particularly excelled in crafting the perfect versions of this cut, offering options made from organic cotton and premium denim.

Barrel Jeans

While the 1990s were characterized by sharp, angular shapes, the 2020s have ushered in a trend for rounded, sculptural silhouettes. Barrel-cut jeans feature a relaxed fit through the hips and thighs with tapered legs at the ankle, creating a shape reminiscent of a horseshoe or barrel. This cut adds architectural volume to outfits while remaining comfortable to wear. These jeans look particularly striking when paired with fitted tops, creating a balanced proportion. They have become a favorite among fashion editors and trendsetters for their ability to elevate even the most basic wardrobe.

Split Hems

Jeans with slits at the bottom hem represent an evolution of classic denim. This design detail, previously used primarily on trousers and leggings, is now being actively adopted in denimwear. The slits allow for a peek of footwear, adding dynamism and a modern touch to the look. They are especially striking when paired with ankle boots or tall boots, as the slit reveals a glimpse of the shoe with every step. This trend points to the future of denim, where detailing and unconventional cuts take center stage. The slits can range from subtle to mid-calf length, creating a flared effect.

Deep Indigo

Dark indigo blue is experiencing a renaissance in the fashion world. This shade, used to make the very first Levi's jeans in 1873, is once again at the peak of popularity. The deep, rich indigo color looks more elegant and versatile compared to lighter washes. These jeans work for both casual outfits and more formal occasions. They pair beautifully with a white T-shirt, a black blouse, or a brightly colored top, creating a striking contrast. As the warmer season arrives, dark denim shades become especially relevant, adding depth and sophistication to outfits. Brands like Khaite and other luxury labels are betting heavily on this shade in their collections.