Trousers are one of the most universal items of clothing, and sewing trousers requires not only precision but also knowledge of professional techniques. This article presents the main styles of trousers, recommendations for different body types (including plus size women) and professional sewing tips.
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1. Classic straight trousers
Description: Mid-rise, straight-leg trousers that sit slightly on the hips.
For whom: A universal cut that visually slims. Suitable for all body shapes, including plus-size women.
Fabrics: Suiting fabric, gabardine, wool.
Sewing:
1. Hip fit: Use a stay-stitch along the waist before joining the pieces. This prevents stretching.
2. Welt pockets: Cut the pocket linings from a thin fabric slightly smaller than the main part so that the edges do not stick out.
3. Waist line: Check the pattern for a curved back (especially for plus-size clients). Add darts or adjust the waistband.
4. Vent: Install an invisible zipper on the side seam for a neat look. Use a zipper foot to prevent the fabric from shifting.
2. Flared trousers
Description: Trousers that fit tightly on the hips and flare out from the knee.
For whom: Ideal for women with a “Pear” or “Hourglass” figure type. Helps to balance the volume of the hips for plus size women.
Fabrics: Linen, cotton, jersey.
Sewing:
1. Expansion cut: Construct the pattern so that the flare lines are symmetrical. To do this, use auxiliary perpendiculars.
2. Dart placement: Move the front darts closer to the side seams to reduce the tension of the fabric in the abdominal area.
3. Hem: For dense fabrics, make a double hem with a fixing seam to avoid distortion. For lightweight fabrics, use bias binding.
3. Skinny trousers
Description: Trousers that fit tightly around the hips and legs.
For whom: Suitable for “Rectangles” and “Inverted Triangles” types of figures. Only thick fabrics with added elastane are suitable for overweight women.
Fabrics: Stretch denim, elastic cotton.
Sewing:
1. Fabric elasticity: Before sewing, be sure to perform a fabric stretch test. Cut with the addition of fractional elasticity.
2. Knee fit: When sewing, take into account the anatomical shape of the knee, adding a small dart on the back of the trousers.
3. Reinforce seams: Use double chain stitch on areas subject to tension such as the seat line and inside seams.
4. Banana trousers
Description: Voluminous at the hips, soft pleats and tapered legs.
For whom: Suitable for “Rectangle”, “Pear” and full-figured women, as soft pleats create balance to the figure.
Fabrics: Linen, lightweight cotton, jersey.
Sewing:
1. Pleats: Fix the pleats with hand stitches before sewing the seam so that they lie symmetrically.
2. Adjusting the length: When sewing cuffs, pre-measure the length of the legs during fitting to avoid excess volume at the ankle.
3. Side pockets: When processing the pockets, reinforce the pocket opening with an elastic thread to prevent deformation.
5. High waisted trousers
Description: Trousers with an accent on the waist.
For whom: Ideal for plus size women and “hourglass” figures – it visually lengthens the legs.
Fabrics: Wool, gabardine, linen.
Sewing:
1. Wide belt: When cutting out the belt, add an allowance for the rise along the bias line so that it does not press on the waist.
2. Fixing the shape: Before sewing, reinforce the belt with a medium-density interlining. For elastic fabrics, use stretch interlining.
3. Darts: Iron the darts at the waist to the sides to avoid excessive thickening of the fabric.
6. Culottes
Description: Cropped wide trousers with volume.
For whom: Suitable for all body types. Full-figured women are recommended to choose elongated culottes to elongate the silhouette.
Fabrics: Linen, cotton, viscose.
Sewing:
1. Seat line: Increase the depth of the seat line for a comfortable fit on full-figured women.
2. Leg length: The optimal length for full-figured women is to the middle of the calf or slightly below.
3. Hem: Use bias binding to smoothly finish the hem line.
7. Palazzo trousers
Description: Very wide trousers with a high waist.
For whom: Suitable for “Pear” and “Hourglass” types of figures. Full-figured women should avoid fabrics that are too light, so that the trousers do not add volume.
Fabrics: Chiffon, crepe, heavy viscose.
Sewing:
1. Leg width: Press the patterns on the fabric with minimal allowances to avoid distortion of the width.
2. Waistband: Use a hidden button fastening for a neat look.
3. Hem finishing: For flowing fabrics, make a narrow hem by hand.
